Slipping on the Wild, Wild East
By Mary Bruce
The Zephyr, Galesburg
I donÕt get it—Russia, that
is. I didnÕt get it when I taught in Moscow last fall, and still donÕt. Russia is the most complex place IÕve
ever visited, much more complex than the USA, and perhaps more than many European
and African countries. At first, I thought the complexity was because of RussiaÕs
size, big enough to hold three USAs. Now I think a good bit of my not Ògetting
it,Ó results from its contradictions. Truth, like banana peels, is always
slippery, but seems particularly so in Russia.
In Moscow seventy-five year old
women beg for money on the newly capitalized streets, streets that hold
penthouses, high class brothels—oops, I mean ÒbarsÓ e.g. ÒThe BabyloniaÓ
and restaurants that charge $95 for brunch. Sprinkle these contradictions with some of the worldÕs best
architecture, music and art, and you have some idea of the mysterious nature of
ÒMother Russia.Ó Why, for example, is Krushev not allowed to be buried among
the countryÕs heroes near LeninÕs tomb yet Stalin is? Khrushchev tried to make
peace and began reforms. StalinÕs reforms resulted in xxx million innocents
either executed or exiled to Siberia.
In Russia, modern violence dances with communal trust. Last
fall in Moscow, there was a murder every week. First, a man trying to reform
the banking system was gunned down as he left a health club, his face shattered,
as a newspaper picture showed. ÒA contract killing,Ó the TV calmly
announced. Then an oil magnate,
then a couple of rich people met their ends through contract killings. I
considered these victims as rivals in venture capitalistsÕ grab for RussiaÕs
oil and timber—that is until the murder of journalist Anna Politkovskaya,
an assassination aimed at shutting her up. When police entered her apartment,
they found her newspaper essay naming names and dates of torturers and victims gone,
her hard drive erased, but all monies intact. Later, when AnnaÕs posthumous article
foretelling her own death and implicating Kodyov of Chechnya came out, suspicions
about Putin dissolved. Dissolved, that is until, Litvinenko a former KGB spy
who had been investigating Anna PolitkovskayaÕs death, was poisoned in London. ÒIn
a deathbed statement, the 43-year-old declared, "You may succeed in
silencing one man, but the howl of protest from around the world will
reverberate, Mr. Putin, in your ears for the rest of your life."
So much for this stream of Òwhodunits.Ó To me, then, the
murders, whether economic or political, signaled simply a phase of the country,
like the rise of our Robber Barons in the late 19th century, or
perhaps the frequent shootouts in the Wild West. In fact, I wrote home about
the ÒWild, Wild East.Ó
But now I realize this analogy is wrong. Our Wild West shoot
outs took place on undeveloped, uncivilized (by Europeans anyhow) land. Russia
is an ancient civilization, first Christianized in the 8th century.
It has endured eons of oppression by the ÒYellow Hoards,Ó czars, priests, and
soviets. Yet it has birthed the worldÕs greatest art, music and architecture.
In the midst of shady political and economic killings, Muscovites stroll in
Puskin Square, Miakowsy square and along boulevards named for and sporting
statues of artists. The ordinary person attends concerts, ballets, operas, the
way we do the movies, in gorgeous buildings with gilt-edged seats from little
more than $7 a seat. My assistant, Svetlana, on a trip to the USA exclaimed when
she found the symphony hall attached to a university. ÒWhy should it be
attached only to the intelligentsia? Culture belongs to everyone,Ó
Perhaps this
concept of Òeveryone,Ó explains the palpable trust that vibrates between people
in city parks, on metros, at midnight in the Kremlin. With all the skuldudery
in the newspapers, I was shocked to see, and also to feel, the trust between
city people. The city park near my dorm was always filled with young parents
with strollers, old couples tottering arm in arm, groups of teenagers drinking
beer (but not drunk or loud), and lovers twined around each other on benches. No
one was Òwatching outÓ—alert for trouble. No one watched her purse, or
glanced about suspiciously. This certainly wouldnÕt happen in a Chicago or New
York City park. Marina, my boss, and I, along with many others, strolled at
midnight in the lit-up Kremlin. There simply was no fear. Men gave up their seats to me on the
metro; strangers offered to translate when I was obviously not getting
anywhere. Finally, I caught on. The society was communal, not individualistic
like us.
How then to explain the trust
between the people in the parks, in the Kremlin, in the streets when they
routinely contend with contract killings and ambiguous, secret government
dealings? I found one answer from
an ordinary woman who remarked, ÒOh, I never worry about my safety; IÕm
not important enough.Ó Then there
is a famous quote by a Russian author. ÒOne can never understand Russia; one
can only believe in her.Ó
Perhaps my most realistic answer lies
in how the Russians received me. In
Moscow, strong anti-American sentiment prevailed in newspapers, on television,
in professorsÕ lectures. Yet I was
popular. I asked my director why I
was successful when Americans were so despised. She crinkled her eyes and
pressed my hand ÒWe,
Russians, have learned through hard experience that governments come and go,
but the people-- the people--remain the same.Ó She smiled. ÒThat is why.Ó
And that is why I love Russia, for
its people, the people whose generosity overlooked my bumbling. ÒMother RussiaÓ
has a warm-heartedness has probably been around for ÉGod knows for how long.
Between bouts of wanderlust, Mary Bruce teaches English at
Monmouth College. In her twenty-two years there, she has traveled extensively,
directing student off-campus programs in England and Zimbabwe. She is the
recipient of several Global Partners Awards to Kenya and Tanzania and three
Fulbright grants, the latest in Moscow, Russia. In her spare time, she writes
and has published short stories, a poetry collection and novel. Dr. Bruce is
married and has two sons, one grandson and two granddaughters. Next to
them, she considers the Midwest her creative inspiration